TRAVEL:JUMPING AROUND JAKARTA

Compared to the neighboring beaches of Bali, Jakarta, Indonesia’s capital is not known as a major tourist destination. You know that’s true when even the customs officials look surprised that you are here for a holiday. It’s also true that, thanks to the deservedly notorious traffic, navigating this sprawling metropolis could put off the hardiest traveler. The solution, take things at a more leisurely place, explore the city by area and discover Jakarta’s intriguing mix of the old and new.Cultural Kota
Also known as Old Town Jakarta, any remnants of Dutch colonization are found in this northern part of town, making it a great place to soak up some of the city’s culture.

The best place to begin this history lesson has to be the the National Museum (Jl. Medan Merdeka Barat 12,21-386-8172. www.museumnasional.org. Open Tue-Thu, Sun 8:30am-2:30pm, Fri 8:30-11:30am, Sat 8:30am-1:30pm) which has been around since 1778 and houses some of the largest Southeast Asian and Hindu Javanese art collections in the world. Across the street, in the center of Freedom Square, is the famous 137-meter, gold-tipped masterpiece of the nationalistic Sukarno era, the National Monument (Jl. Lapangan Merdeka, Monas, Gambir, 21-384-0451. Open daily 8am–5pm) or as the locals call it “Monas.” You can see it close up and get an aerial view over the city by taking the elevator to the top. A bit further up the road you’ll also come across the Freedom Memorial (Jl. M.H. Thamrin Kav) a massive water fountain surrounded by skyscrapers and a popular meeting point for political demonstrations. Culture vultures should also head to Taman Fatahillah Square. The former site of the colonial administration, the square is now home to the Jakarta History Museum (Jalan Taman Fatahillah 1, 21-692-9101. Open Tue-Thu, Sun 9am-3pm, Fri 9am-1:30pm, Sat 9am-1pm) which gives an overview of the city’s development from prehistory until the present day; theShadow Puppet (Wayang) Museum (Jalan Pintu Besar Barat 27, Jakarta Barat, 21-692-9560. Open Tue-Thu, Sun 9am-3pm, Fri 9am-4:30pm, Sat 9am-2:30pm); and, the Museum of Fine Arts and Ceramics (Jl Taman Fatahillah 2, Pinangsia Village, 21-690-7062. Open Tue-Sun 9am-3 pm.)
All that sightseeing is likely to get you hungry. Fortunately, Kota is known for its traditional Indonesian cuisine. Many of the locals believe that the city is currently experiencing a renaissance where old school favorites are being fused with international flavors and spices. Dapur Babar (Jl. Veteran 1, No. 18-19, 21-7060-2256. www.tuguhotels.com. Open daily 11am–11pm) is not only one of the catalysts for this gastronomic revolution; it’s also a quick walk from many major landmarks. The menu offers an extensive fusion of the three cultures present in the city—Chinese, Dutch and, of course, Indonesian. Aside from the delicious range of dishes like green rice and barbequed beef, it’s also worth a visit for the decor as it’s chock -full of old museum pieces and beautiful restored furniture. For dessert, stop in a few doors down at the oldest ice cream parlor in Jakarta. Ragusa (Jl. Veteran 1, No. 10, 21-384-9123. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm) is an Italian gelato joint that’s been around since 1932. It’s a must-have, and a large cup of glace will only set you back B100.Classy Kemang
The Southern district of Kemang is what Sunset Boulevard is to Los Angeles. Needless to say, it is the place to go if you want to enjoy the sophisticated side of Jakarta. This area is pedestrian friendly—or as pedestrian friendly as you are going to get, and is home to a number of fashion forward boutiques and restaurants.
Along with its food renaissance, Jakarta is also experiencing the rebirth of batik, a traditional fabric that’s been reclaimed by the hottest local designers. Chic boutiques such as Urban Republic (Jl. Kemang Raya, 21-9131-2856. www.urbanrepublicstore.com. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2am, Sat-Sun 11am-4am) and 7’Ocean (Jl. Kemang Raya No.27, 21-7198-372. Open daily 11am-midnight) are currently hip and offer unique handmade dresses, skirts and men’s shirts ranging from B500-1000. Housed in the Kemang Icon by Alila, Edward Hutabarat’s (2/F, Jl Kemang Raya 1, 21-719-7989. www.alilahotels.com/kemangicon) boutique store is another offering batik creations with a modern twist. This shop is for the more discerning, well just plain rich, clientele with dresses starting at B40,000.
Food and shopping go hand in hand and if you tire of Indonesian fare then this part of town serves up something different. You’ll find a surprising selection of Italian restaurants to choose from. Pizza Marzano (Jl. Kemang Raya No.12, 21-719-5351. www.pizzamarzano.com. Open daily 11am-11pm) is an international chain and has some of the best carbonara and white sauce this side of Italy. With a huge selection of wines and the average meal ranging from B200-500, we get the attraction. La Scala Restaurant & Lounge (Jl. Kemang Raya No.2, 21-719-4051-52. Open Mon-Fri 11am-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-12pm) is a slightly higher-end experience but wine lovers will appreciate the great deals such as buy two bottles and get the third free. Purists can still enjoy an Indonesian feast at Payon (Jl. Kemang Raya No.17, 21-719-4826. Open daily 11am-11pm). This Javanese-style pavilion restaurant has a sizeable manicured garden out back and an open kitchen so you can watch your dishes being prepared.Entertaining Senayan
At the very heart of the city, Senayan is synonymous with entertainment and nightlife. If you hear rumors of a hot club or bar, then chances are you’ll find it here. Despite being in the capital of the most populous Muslim country in the world, young Jakartans like to party. Staying out until the sun rises is typical and most venues don’t get moving until 1am and close around 6 or 7am. There are, however, a number of pre-club spots to go and hang with friends before the hardcore partying begins. For true chilling Minus 2 (No.23-25, Jl Jend., Sudirman-Pintu Satu Senayan, 21-2555-4089. Open daily 10.30am-10.30pm), prides itself on serving the coldest beer in town. When you’re ready to turn things up a notch, the Embassy Club (Taman Ria Senayan, East End Building, Jl Gatot Subroto, 21-570-3704. www.embassytheclub.com) offers three spacious floors each with its own vibe, décor and music.This long term favorite start srocking around 1am when Jakarta’s who’s who start grooving to mostly house and electronic beats. Dragon Fly (Graha BIP Jl., Gatot Subroto Kav. 23, 21-520-6789, www.the-dragonfly.com) offers a more pretentious let’s-not-dance-but-vogue-instead experience.Literally a red hot spot with illuminated crimson walls, an intense DJ spinning more house and a dance floor so jammed that you couldn’t bust a move even if you wanted to.Getting Around
It’s either taxis or buses as there is no Skytrain to bail you out of the gridlocked traffic jams. If you are not familiar with the city, it’s best to stick with Blue Bird Taxi (21-798-1234, www.bluebirdgroup.com. 24 hours.) Meters start at B20 and a one hour trip costs around B100. The company also operates a limousine service, Silver Bird, a comfortable way to get from the airport to your hotel for a set price of B600.

Essentials

CURRENCY EXCHANGE
270 Rupiah = B1

COUNTRY CODE
Dial: +62

GETTING THERE
Air Asia (02-515-9999. www.airasia.com) has a daily direct flight from Bangkok to Jakarta starting around B7,300 roundtrip (includes taxes, VAT and surcharges.)
Malaysian Air (02-263-0520. www.malaysianairlines.com) flies from Bangkok to Jakarta several times a day via Kuala Lumpur. B18,200 buys a roundtrip ticket (includes taxes, VAT and surcharges.)
Thai Airways (02-356-1111. www.thaiair.com) will get you direct to Jakartafor around B14,400 (includes taxes, VAT and surcharges.)

WHERE TO STAY
Alila Jakarta (Jl Pecenongan kav 7-17, 21-231-6007. www.alilahotels.com/jakarta) is well located in the heart of the Kota area. With a minimalist design, the hotel offers sleek décor, trendy restaurants and high tech business facilities for a cosmopolitan experience. Book online through Dec 2008 and get a deluxe room from B3,000 per night.
Hotel Mulia (Jl Asia Afrika, 21-574-7777. www.hotelmulia.com) in central Senayan is one of former President Sukarno’s most elegant and gorgeous creations thanks to its marble floors and mahogany staircases. You pay for the privilege though, with the Mulia Splendor double rooms starting at B9,000 per night.
Kemang Icon by Alila (Jl Kemang Raya 1, 21-719-7989. www.alilahotels.com/kemangicon) leads the class when it comes to sophisticated boutique hotels in Jakarta. With only 12 individually decorated suites, book early as this accommodation was listed in Conde Nast’s Traveler US Hot List. Suites start at B5,000 per night.
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